Drag Racing 4×4 is a new racing game for the iOS and Android platforms. It’s decidedly much more old-school with an indie vibe than the other major drag racing games on the market, but it’s got a LOT of charm, is a quick play and a hell of a challenge. You can choose from a wide range of souped up trucks and SUVs, from the Ford Super Duty F-series to the VW Touareg to the Mercedes G-class, spice them up on your own, and, of course, race the hell out of them. Read on for some tips and tricks for Drag Racing 4×4!
Doing the right moves during the race is the easy part. Before the race begins, keep the needle in the green until the light gets to the green light. Then, shift gears in the green. For a little bit of extra speed, shift as far back into the green as possible, because the vehicle will slow down a slight little bit once you shift, and that millisecond can sometimes make the difference in the race.
There are a ton of different cars that you can buy, but some of them are far worse deals than others. Oddly, the best deals tend to be the “fake” cars, such as the CM cars, as they tend to have better power, less weight and more grip. But racing fake cars is no fun. Look for real cars with the best ratio of power to weight relative to price. Then, of course, upgrade them later. In particular, stay away from the Land Rover Defender for actual racing purposes.
Don’t purchase upgrades until you really need them in order to save money. Master your shifting first so that you can get the most speed and acceleration out of the vehicle that you already have. If you lose, then, and only then, should you think about purchasing the upgrades. Then only buy the minimum necessary.
Ignore the shift timer if you have to, especially during the driver battle where your rival and you drive the exact same vehicle. Shift from the second-to-last gear to the last gear after you have already passed redline and you’ll forge just ahead of your opponent. Keep winning this race over and over as an easy way to get more Nitrous and cash (this provides quite a bit of both).
When you get the choice of race length, go for the whole mile every time, because you earn more money (and sometimes more nitrous) for doing so. You usually do all of the shifting within the first 1/4 mile of the race anyways, and after that it’s usually just coasting.
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